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Wildlife and Adventure in Zam-Babwe

12/1/2009

Luxury Zambia Safaris - Giraffes in Zambia and ZimbabweOverview

The safari component of my 2009 trip was filled with a number of truly memorable highlights - not least of which was the privilege of being aboard what was probably the first ever hot air balloon flight in Zambia. The safari camps in Zambia and Zimbabwe have been refining their offerings over the past couple of years, and I was fortunate enough to sample some of the exciting and innovative new developments that they have lined up for the 2010 season. From hot air ballooning over the beautiful Busanga Plains, to expanded walking opportunities and romantic "sleep out" options, to opportunities for cultural exposure, camps in Zambia and Zimbabwe are augmenting traditional safari activities with an array of more interactive and "experiential" encounters that greatly enhance one's sense of connection to Africa's wilderness and wildlife. Based on the highly complementary nature of National Parks in these two countries, it is our sense that Zambia and Zimbabwe will grow even closer together as destinations in the coming years.

Highlights

1) Hot air ballooning over the Busanga Plains in the Kafue National Park has to rate as one of my most memorable safari experiences ever. Part of this, no doubt, resulted from the sense of history - there is no record of a previous hot air balloon flight in Zambia - but it was also, in large part, due to the unspoiled beauty of the Busanga Plains, the opportunity of seeing and photographing wildlife from the air, and the nature of ballooning itself.

Ballooning over the Busanga Plains - Luxury Zambia SafarisThe Busanga Plains is, to the best of our knowledge, the only true wilderness area in southern Africa that is home to large quantities of big game, and is also open enough to freely permit ballooning. The inaugural flight was three years in the planning and organizing, and drew together key figures from Wilderness Safaris (who operate three camps on the Busanga Plains and were the driving force behind the ballooning), and Eric and Nancy Hesemans from Namib Sky Ballooning, probably the most experienced balloon operators in southern Africa. Eric and Nancy had to make a 1,200 mile odyssey with the balloon from their remote base in the Namib Desert to the even more inaccessible Busanga Plains.

Luxury Kafue Park Safaris - Hot Air Balloon Safaris in ZambiaThe event wasn't without some drama. I arrived at Shumba Camp the afternoon prior to the inaugural flight date, just as the Plains were being battered by a severe rain and wind storm. It also came to light that Eric and Nancy had fallen behind schedule - a broken axle had forced them to abandon their trailer and strap the balloon to their truck, which had significantly slowed their progress. They had reached Lufupa Camp (gateway to the Kafue Park) late in the afternoon, after various further tribulations, and made the bold decision to keep pushing for Shumba Camp in the dark. They finally made it later that night, as the rest of us were about to concede defeat and accept a postponement. From that moment, the fates relented, and nothing further would stand in the way of Zambia's first balloon flight.

The wind and rain stopped in the course of the night, and we awoke at 04h00 on November 3rd to a beautiful predawn, still as a portrait. Trial balloons indicated that a spot just outside camp would be ideal for the launch, and Eric and his eager team sprang into action to get the balloon set up and inflated. With the eastern horizon vividly aglow, and the sun about to make its appearance, the basket gently scraped across the grass and then lost all connection to terra firma. 

Luxury Zambia Safaris - Aerial Views at Kafue ParkThe next hour was absolutely entrancing. It is my humble opinion that the Busanga Plains offer the most spectacular sunrises in southern Africa, with sheets of mist gently coiling themselves around tree islands, and gradually receding in the face of a fiery red orb. This was a classic Busanga sunrise, although the sun itself only made a cameo appearance. As if to emphasize just what an extraordinary event was unfolding, we spotted a leopard (a creature of the thick bush) snaking its way through the long grass below us, trying to escape the shadow of the balloon. A little further along, a couple of puku antelope appeared like wraiths in the mist: confounded by a celestial apparition that defied millennia of their hereditary memory, they had no response but to stop and stare. Large flocks of open billed storks flew beneath the balloon, black darts against the yellow and green tapestry of the Busanga's vast grass plains.

During the second half of the flight Eric put on an expert display of ballooning, brushing the basket against treetops as the balloon gently drifted with the breeze.

Wildlife in the Kafue Park - Luxury Zambia SafarisI stayed on for a second night, and enjoyed an encore ballooning excursion the next day. I also had a fantastic opportunity to fly over the Busanga Plains by helicopter, which was revealing in terms of the volume of wildlife that inhabits the Plains (the sheer vastness of which has the effect of obscuring its abundant game population). In the course of a 20 minute flight, we saw literally thousands of puku and lechwe antelope, a herd of roughly 300 buffalo, large numbers of wildebeest and zebra, and several rare sitatunga antelope. While photographing the balloon from the chopper, we also saw a nice herd of roan antelope.

My aerial experiences were the perfect complement to game drives on the Busanga, which typically produce outstanding lion viewing, excellent opportunities for seeing cheetah, and lots of plains game, but don't fully reveal the extent of the plains and the sheer number of resident animals. The addition of these airborne activities will enable visitors to the Busanga Plains to much more fully appreciate the bounty of this unique and game-rich ecosystem.

2) We frequently receive inquiries from travelers who want to spend the bulk of their time in permanent camps, with real beds and en suite bathroom facilities, but would relish the opportunity to spend a night or two in a more adventurous form of accommodation, a little closer to nature. In response to such requests, several of the camps that I visited in the South Luangwa, Mana Pools, and Hwange National Parks plan to offer "sleep out" options for 2010. This concept is perhaps best exemplified by Kalamu Lagoon Camp in Zambia's South Luangwa National Park.

Luxury South Luangwa Safaris - Luxury Camps in ZambiaKalamu itself is a luxury tented camp in the very remote and private southern sector of the South Luangwa National Park. The camp features eight spacious and comfortable rooms, with the full spectrum of amenities (real beds, closet space, full en-suite bathroom facilities including shower, flush loo, hand basins, etc.). Many guests will probably never want to leave the comfort of their rooms but, for those seeking to experience Africa at a more personal level, two innovative sleep out options are offered. The most romantic is an elevated platform on the banks of the Luangwa River, offering spectacular views and an impressive array of luxuries: king size bed, real shower (with hot and cold running water), and a flush loo. This is soft adventure with a capital "S", entailing virtually no deprivation whatsoever, and promises to be a real hit with romantic travelers (honeymoons, anniversaries, etc.).

Sunrise on the Luangwa River - Luxury Zambia SafarisAs I was traveling alone, with little mind for romance, I opted for the more adventurous sleep out option - a fly camp on a sandbank in the Luangwa River comprising dome tents with camp beds, and a long drop loo per tent. We arrived at the campsite just in time for a spectacular sunset which backlit the Chindeni Mountains and reflected off the gently flowing waters of the Luangwa River. The camp staff already had a fire going and, with gin and tonic in hand, we saluted the ending of another perfect day on safari. Our directors chairs gradually shuffled closer and closer to the small fire as darkness descended and Africa's hauntingly beautiful night sounds became more pronounced. A delectable meal was prepared by the camp staff on another small fire, just feet away from us.

After dinner, emboldened by the friendly light of a full moon, my hosts and I fed small logs onto the hungry fire and conversed deep into the night. When I eventually asked to be escorted to my tent, the white beach sand around our peaceful little camp was so perfectly illuminated by moonlight that a flashlight wasn't even necessary. Despite a relative paucity of sleep, I was up well before dawn the next morning, recharged and invigorated for another spectacular day ahead. The fundamental simplicity of the sleep out, as far away from the distractions and concerns of the modern world as it is possible to escape, had filled me with the joys of life.

3) Wildlife, up close and personal. During the course of my eight nights on safari, I recorded 39 species of mammal, including the famous "Big Five" (I gave up counting birds after around 150 species). This is an impressive tally by any standard, and compares very favorably with the 40 species that I encountered on a similar Botswana safari last year. Looking behind the numbers, the primary strength of the Botswana safari was the regularity of predator sightings - there was scarcely a game drive in Botswana when I didn't see at least one of the super predators. The only super predator that I didn't see during the course of my Zam-Babwe safari was African wild dogs (a very rare sighting anywhere in Africa), so I didn't miss out on anything that one would expect from safari, but I was perhaps not quite as inundated with predators as I had been in Botswana. On the other hand, the nature of the sightings in Zam-Babwe was, in many respects, unique and special.

Luxury Busanga Safaris - Lions in the Kafue National Park, Zambia


One example of this was a lion sighting on the Busanga Plains in Kafue National Park. A small pride with two cubs had just killed a buffalo, and were in the process of engorging themselves. We spent an hour with the pride, observing and photographing them in the warm afternoon light. And there was never another vehicle in sight. This speaks to the remoteness and largely undiscovered nature of some of the prime ecosystems in Zam-Babwe.

 


Elephants in the Hwange National Park - Luxury Zimbabwe SafarisAnother highly memorably event during the course of my safari that really stood out for the quality of the experience was my last African sunset, in Hwange National Park. We had just enjoyed the rare privilege of watching a rhino mother and calf, bathed in perfect afternoon light, when Lawrence (our guide) positioned the vehicle about 80 yards from a watering hole. A small table was set up for hors d'oeuvres, and Lawrence took cocktail orders. Within minutes, as if on cue, the elephants started arriving. In the course of the next half hour, at least 100 elephants must have filed past us, some within 50 yards of our position. Apart from the odd shake of a head and high pitched warning squeal as they bypassed us, the elephants paid very little attention to our presence, but energetically drank and wallowed before moving on, just as the next group was arriving.

I was struck by sensory overload: between the spectacular sunset in front of us, and the elephants all around, my attention bounced from one subject matter to another. Being close to elephants is not necessarily unusual but, having one's feet on the ground and being within range to hear the skin of their legs rubbing against their chests, provides a whole new perspective on the colossal size of these African giants. This level of intimacy with elephants would not be everybody's cup of tea, but Lawrence had read his guests perfectly, and everyone on the vehicle was in awe of the experience.

4) Another highlight of my time in Zam-Babwe was the opportunity to get out of the vehicle and participate in non-motorized activities, like walking and canoeing. Most camps in South Luangwa, Mana Pools, and Hwange Parks offer walking excursions, while camps in the Mana Pools Park also feature canoeing on the great Zambezi River. Many of the camps also feature raised blinds overlooking watering holes (or other strategic features), where guests can sit unobserved and watch as animals come to drink; this is not only a relaxing sunset activity, but can also provide additional viewing time in lieu of an afternoon siesta.

As the home of walking safaris, it's perhaps fitting that my most memorably walking experience was in the South Luangwa National Park. Tafika Camp and Kalamu Lagoon Camp, in the extreme north and south of the Park respectively, both have concession areas that cover land on either side of the Luangwa River. Under the terms of their lease agreements, the camps have developed a network of game drive roads on one side of the river, and left the other side as completely unspoiled wilderness walking area. Crossing the River to access the walking area is an adventure in itself. During the early season, when the river flows more strongly, a boat is used to ferry guests across. By October, the Luangwa is, in areas, little more than a filigree of narrow, shallow streams that fan out across the wide, sandy riverbed, and can only be forded on foot.

Walking Safaris in Zambia - Luxury South Luangwa SafarisAn armed National Parks scout leads the way while Luckson, our intrepid professional guide, reassuringly confirms that the channels are too shallow to accommodate the large crocodiles that bask in the sun at the edge of a deep pond, a few hundred yards away. The walk itself is educational more than adrenaline-driven, and we focus on intricacies of the ecosystem that are overlooked on game drives: beetles, elephant dung, plants and their medicinal uses, the fruits from sausage trees, and a myriad other habitat elements that sustain the wealth of life in the Luangwa Valley. Both Luckson and the scout are perpetually alert and checking the wind, constantly on the lookout for dangerous game (which they carefully avoid).

Again, walking is not an activity exclusive to Zam-Babwe camps, but the remote and unspoiled nature of the setting, coupled with the proud tradition of walking safaris in these two countries, result in walking excursions that tend to be a little more flexible and authentic.

5) For several years, we have supported Wilderness Safaris' Children in the Wilderness program, inspired by the late, great Paul Newman (and based on his Hole in The Wall Gang project). At-risk children whose childhoods have been disrupted by disease, poverty, or HIV/AIDS spend five educational and nurturing days as guests at Wilderness Safaris' camps across southern Africa. Through the medium of environmental education (and fun), the children are taught valuable life skills while simultaneously developing awareness for, and appreciation of, the invaluable natural heritage that surrounds them.

During my stay at Little Makalolo Camp in Hwange I had the privilege of spending a few hours participating in a Children in the Wilderness (CITW) program at nearby Makalolo Plains Camp. I arrived in camp shortly after the kids, had the honor of serving them lunch, and then participated in the "ice breaking" session of singing, dancing, and rule learning. I was struck by how well conceived and executed the program is - by the end of my brief visit the children were already starting to loosen up, make friends, and feel comfortable with their new "home". Every activity was interactive and empowering, based on the notion that kids learn best when they are guided to discover things for themselves; and the basic principles of self-esteem and respect for others were reinforced at every turn. The program is run by a full time coordinator, assisted by an army of volunteers (all Wilderness Safaris staff who receive their regular pay). Everyone was enthusiastic but "Uncle Bones", the full time coordinator, led the program with levels of energy, passion, and charisma befitting a Fortune 500 CEO: it's clear that, to him, every moment of the five days is a precious opportunity to enrich the children's lives, and he didn't slacken for a minute. Although brief, my experience with CITW was incredibly positive and rewarding, not to mention humbling, and I left Hwange with a sense of optimism that was a refreshing change from the depressing developments that have characterized Zimbabwe for the last decade.

Regular travelers will not have access to a CITW program, but some camps in Hwange and South Luangwa Parks have relationships with nearby villages that enable guests at these camps to visit the villages for some insight into rural African culture and life-style. In return for this hospitality, the camps assist the villages with various projects (schools, clinics, wells, etc.), and guests themselves have the opportunity to make contributions should they feel so moved. This cultural exposure can be a real highlight of a safari, and perfectly complements the regular focus on wildlife and natural beauty. It is yet another example of how camps in these two countries are seeking ways to provide guests with an enhanced and holistic appreciation of Africa, its people and wild places.

Conclusion

Luxury Zambia and Zimbabwe Safaris - Diverse WildlifeAs a sign of the slowly improving political situation in Zimbabwe, brought about by dollarization of the economy and the creation of a Government of National Unity, tourist arrivals to this country for 2009 were three times higher than in 2008 (the global economic slowdown notwithstanding). Simultaneously, the number of international visitors to Zambia has increased by around 30% since 2005 (including a 5% increase for 2009). Both destinations are moving in a similar direction in terms of the more in-depth type of safari experience that they offer, and this is gaining traction with travelers. In the course of my eight night safari I visited 18 camps and was impressed with improvements in the quality of accommodation, food, and service, and struck by the extent to which many of these camps are offering a wider and more interactive range of encounters with the African wilderness, all in an effort to provide guests with a more engaging and memorable safari experience.

The final advantage is that, largely by virtue of their relatively undiscovered nature, safari camps in Zambia and Zimbabwe tend to cost less than equivalent camps in some of the more established safari destinations. Given the current focus on value in travel, this places the camps in Zam-Babwe in a strong position for 2010, and we only see them moving from strength to strength beyond that.


12/1/2009
New Travel Incentives for 2010
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